Arrived at
1:50 p.m. This is our first trip starting on a weekday, so the airport
experience was much more relaxed and quicker than we are used to. Found out our
Verizon service was limited to texting, and then only between Mullet Bay and
Grand Case. We would receive a flood of texts while driving, and P could not
answer them because she was driving, and I am a texting novice, so between my
ineptitude with the task and the bumpy ride, my replies were mostly
incomprehensible.
Checked in at
La Plantation, the same place we stayed in 2006 with our now departed in-laws
Pat and Sal. The staff is wonderful, the breakfast is excellent, and the rooms
are very open and spacious. Plenty of square footage and 16’ vaulted ceilings
make us feel very unconfined. We managed a room facing the pool and dining
area, so Wifi is available in a certain spot facing a window. Love the terraces
here!
Because of
our cell phone service problem, we were unable to meet up with some friends at
SSBG as planned. They believed we would be meeting them after leaving the
airport and waited until nearly 5:00 p.m. for us before leaving. Ironically, we
arrived at 5:30, but they were too “happy” by then to drive back to meet us.
SSBG had a trumpet/guitar duo playing who were pretty entertaining, but
periodic rain brought a small crowd that night.
We drove back
to the French side, and only then did we receive a text from our friends
inviting us over to their Maho-area villa. We decided to use Facebook to
communicate after that. La Plantation had Karaoke that night, but we were too
pooped from the flight, and called it a night.
Thursday, May
3rd.
Woke up to
overcast skies, and the discovery that P’s hair straightening tool would not
work with a voltage adapter. Front desk was helpful in advising to visit
Marigot to find one that operates on 220v. Sun seemed to be coming out by
10:00, so we planned a visit to Coco Beach, where we get free chairs as part of
our hotel package. We were happy to see they still have a c/o section, small as
it may be (20' X 30'). There was only one couple besides us using it, and they
were guests of Esmeralda. We managed around 3 hours of beach time, the sun
fighting a useless battle to burn off the mainly cloudy skies. It started to
look like rain was a-comin' at 1:30, so we packed it up and left.
Contrary to
what we have heard, we could go in the water sans-suit without admonishment.
One gentleman in the textile section even removed his own to take a swim. It
was not particularly windy either; pretty much the standard Orient Beach
breeze. Our beach boy was very attentive, but constantly disappointed we did
not even order a bottle of water. "Is that a cooler?" he asked with
suspicion as he eyed the small cooler between our chairs. There was nothing but
water in it, but they are pretty adamant about purchasing all food and drink at
Coco's. It has always been that way though, and we understand they need to make
money off their visitors. Should not really be a requirement nonetheless...
There was
very little seaweed in the water, but quite a bit on the shore, especially as
we made our way towards the former Mont Vernon hotel. Swimming was not a
problem at all, at least not in this area. Very few people on the beach,
besides some cruise ship day trippers exploring Orient.
It started to
rain on and off around 2:30 and began to peak into a full blown storm around
5:00. We used the time to find a flat iron hair appliance in Marigot. Kacey's
on Rue de la Liberte' is the place for all things electronic. They even dropped
the price and offered dollar for Euro even exchange. Fortunately, the
transformers on her laptop and my CPAP are made to run up to 240 volts, so a
simple adaptor was all that was required for those two items.
We stopped in
Grand Case for an early dinner at Germaine's before heading to the room, and
drove by Tap Five to see if they are still making pizza, and they are. Will
probably get some take-out there before the trip is over.
The rain
continued into the evening, so we enjoyed each other's company without the
benefit of internet or cable television, as the rain seemed to affect both. We
had each other and books {and a fully stocked bar}, so nothing to complain
about on this end.
Friday, May
4th
After a
veritable monsoon overnight, we awoke to a temporary water shut-off and
brilliant sunshine outside. Looking like a good beach day. Heading back to Coco
Beach. Club O is on the agenda for the weekend (can't miss Sinko de Rafto), and
planning visits to Cupecoy, Baie Rouge, and Happy Bay starting Monday.
May 4th
(continued)
Hit the beach
at 10:15. More seaweed in the water today, which is no surprise considering the
relentless drenching the island received the night before. Today, we were
politely informed that swimming sans-suit must take place to the left of Coco's
beach area. No problem for us, what's a few extra steps? Almost zero wind.
We ordered a
bottle of water from the beach boy, and he resigned himself to the fact that
would be about it for us. He was friendly and joked with us. We would not normally
frequent Coco's for the reasons Carol mentioned, but on an iffy weather day,
free chairs is the way to go when possible.
Took a walk
down to Club O from Coco's, and there was no seaweed in the water at all there
(and very little on shore as well). It looked as if there were more folks at
Club O than all the other beachfronts combined. Walked back through a sun
shower around 1:00 that eventually turned into a legitimate storm. Back to the
room for sandwiches, and hoped it would clear up so we could return.
The storm
turned out to be the typical 30 minute gully-washer that we have grown to
expect at least once every trip. So back to the beach we went until 4:00. The
weather was so pleasant; we hated to leave even then. Said farewell to the
couple that shared the area with us yesterday and today. They are leaving
tomorrow, and we won’t be coming back there, so I anticipate the c/o section
being empty for the next few days.
Running water was still an on again/off again issue, but
we both managed showers (Thank you Lord). Would not want to go an entire day
without one.
Picked up a pizza at Tap Five; Au Choix (your choice of
three items in this case). We window shopped while it was being prepared, and
by the time we went back to pay for it, I forgot what it was called. I ventured
“La Choix”, and the cashier laughed and asked me to repeat it. I held up three
fingers to indicate which pizza, and she said: “No, I want to hear you say it!”
She gave me the correct pronunciation and we laughed at my butchering of the phrase.
An excellent meal for two for fourteen bucks...you can’t beat that.
Saturday, May 5th
Hit Club Orient by 10:30 a.m. Partly cloudy skies, which
I prefer, since the heat is intense when the sun is out. P prefers to sizzle.
No seaweed, very little wind...ideal in my book.
We walked the beach in search of our friends, who we were
having trouble connecting with, due to limited Wifi and useless cell phones. No
sign of them anywhere. We resigned ourselves to the fact that we would probably
not see them at all.
At precisely 1:30, a man began urging people to join him
at the raft near Papaguyos, offering free beer in return. It was time for
“Sinko de Rafto”, and P decided abruptly
that we should participate. She had previously announced she would not, feeling
it would be akin to playing Twister with naked strangers. But the offer of beer
changed her mind, and off we swam to the raft rapidly filling with people. P
acted as bartender, handing off beers on a small float to the 25 of us, who
managed to submerge the raft around a foot. It was a blast! Great people, and a
fine tradition. Wish we had a picture, but no one thought of asking someone on
shore to take one.
Around 2:30 we looked up from our chairs to see one of
our long-lost friends, who had dared to venture onto the nude beach to find us.
He led us back to the others, who were running late that day, explaining our
not being able to find them earlier. Drinks in our room and dinner at Paris,
Texas ensued. It was great to finally meet up with them. I took driver’s
training with one of the guys...that’s how far back we go. Our waitress Mary
was adorable and joyfully tolerant of our collective state of mind. We missed
any other Cinco de Mayo parties because of this gathering, but it was well
worth it. Old friends are the best friends.
May 6th and 7th: A dreary Sunday
and Happy Bay Monday.
Sunday was pretty uneventful. Rained all morning and
overcast the rest of the day. We drove to the Maho Market to refresh our
supplies and drove around Cole Bay in search of a photo op. Finally found a
dock that two fishermen were kind enough to allow me to use for some shots. The
sky was less than ideal for scenic photographs, but at least I got some.
Monday was another story. We vowed to visit Happy Bay,
and the weather gamble turned out in our favor, though not initially. We used
the traditional rugged hill-climb route, which was as daunting as ever, with
the added obstacle of a steady stream of rainwater running down the rock path.
Made it a bit slippery and treacherous at times, but we managed and sighed with
relief when the meadow came into view.
We learned that nudists tend to gather at the left end of
the beach, and the boaters typically anchor to the right, and usually wear
bathing suits. Looking around, this seemed to be exactly the case.
There were only eight couples there when we arrived, and
half of them left when it began to sprinkle. We sought shelter at Dany’s Lolo,
where we used the half-hour of inclement weather to get to know the man. Dany
turned out to be quite the conversationalist, and we learned a lot about the
Bay, his life, his business, and his political beliefs. I asked him if I could
put him in my next book, and he replied, “As long as I have a girlfriend”.
Funny guy.
Happy Bay is so unlike Orient Beach; it is just plain
uncanny. While we adore the lively spirit and diverse culture of Orient, the
feel of Happy Bay is quite the opposite. It is quiet, serene, beautiful,
unspoiled, and tranquil. The only sound you hear most of the time is the
hypnotic rhythm of the gently rolling surf. Conversations are rare here; people
gather with a quiet reverence and only converse softly between themselves. Two
sailboats were anchored near the east end and their occupants would spend equal
time on their vessels and the beach. Everyone seemed to be enjoying a shared
sense of complete relaxation.
When the rain left, it left for good, and the sky became
breathtaking with the panoramic view offered from this area. We stayed over
four hours, and even then left only because we were meeting up with our friends
again on Mullet Bay before their flight tomorrow morning. Dany informed us the
path from the gate is much easier for entrance; the gate itself has been broken
and can be easily opened by hand. We probably will park outside the gate and
walk though if we return on Wednesday as planned. I wanted to walk the hill
today for photo ops, but this new information is good to know for future trips.
If we had to pick only one beach to spend an entire week,
it would be a toss-up between Club Orient and Happy Bay.
May 8th- Baie Rouge
Tuesday morning it looked as if the storm clouds were
finally on their way out of the area. We packed up and headed out to Baie
Rouge, where we were carefully directed into a parking spot by a young man whose
shirt indicated he works for Gus’ Beach Bar. I immediately asked if the c/o
beyond the white umbrella policy was still in effect. He replied that nudity
was acceptable anywhere on this beach, and there are no police inspecting the
area to tell people how to dress. This took me by surprise, and I was quick to
also notice the “Nudity Prohibited” sign had been replaced by a “Swim at your
own risk” sign.
I asked the young man if they still rented pool floats,
and he said no, but they did offer beach cushions that could double as a float.
The standard foam rubber floats we rented back in 2006 were cracked and
weather-worn even back then, and had probably become useless in subsequent
years.
So, for the first time ever, we set up shop au
naturale near the water directly in
front of Gus’ Beach Bar.
Contrary to our 50/50 experience with the c/o – textile
ratio on Happy Bay, we were in a very small minority on Baie Rouge. But our
fellow sun worshippers were as tolerant and accepting as the patrons of Happy
Bay; we garnered no more than mild interest from beach walkers and couples
reclining nearby.
So, it appears that while Orient Beach is becoming
increasingly restrictive about nudity outside of Club Orient, restrictions are
simultaneously becoming more relaxed (or even abandoned) on other French side
beaches that have enjoyed de facto c/o status in the past. Is it an effort to
be more accommodating to repeat naturist visitors while continuing to promote
Orient as family-friendly? Or is this just a low season event? As our beach boy
from Gus’s put it: “Things always change here”.
An almost imperceptible gathering of rain clouds followed
our arrival around 11:00, and we began to fear another overcast and drizzly
day. But time gradually solved that dilemma. The clouds dissipated as slowly as
they had appeared, and we were eventually rewarded with abundant sunshine.
The beach cushions were foam rubber, wrapped in material
identical to the beach chair covers, and they were considerably heavier than
the traditional ones we are accustomed too...especially when they got wet.
Getting them out of the water was much harder than putting them in, and the
surf and undertow would frequently take it from my hands and send it either torwards
the shore, or back out to sea. Combine that with the super-soft sand, and you
have a mini battle on your hands. It was still worth it though. Floating on my
stomach in the water is much more comfortable than lying prone on a beach
chair. Once past the shore, it only took occasional paddling to stay at the
right distance between sea and shore, and within sight of P. Baie Rouge is a
pretty hot beach, but we lasted almost four hours there nonetheless. All and
all, a good beach day.
May 9th – Club Orient
Having driven over 250 miles in our rental car this week,
and with the customary feeling of wanting to stay close to home during our
final day in paradise, P and I decided to spend some time at Club Orient. We
had only been there once during the eight-day trip, and were looking for a
livelier atmosphere after the last two tranquil beach days.
What can I say about Club O that hasn’t already been
said? I would venture a guess that 90% of you have first-hand experience with
this wonderful resort and beachfront, so I will speak only of this day in
particular.
We set up shop just north of The Perch. From this vantage
point, it appeared the entire resort was packed to the gills, but a walk to
Papaguyos revealed a considerably smaller crowd as we left the Perch area.
Mostly older folks (who doubtless preferred a quieter atmosphere) peppered an
otherwise deserted stretch of sand.
Quiet would hardly
describe the Perch bar area on this day though; cruise ship day-trippers
hooting and hollering as they swam in the water and eventually removed their swimsuits,
and the “regulars” who generally prefer the social scene. We conversed with a
pair of women that were enchanted with this beach and St. Martin in general.
They were on a cruise, but were already planning a week-long vacation here next
time they travel. They were both wearing swimsuits, but loved the Club Orient
environment.
You could not ask for a better day. High cirrus clouds
provided filtered sunshine at times, cumulus clouds would take the former’s
place from time to time, and radiant sunshine provided a third element, each
taking equal periods of time, as if synchronized in advance. The standard Orient
Beach wind was also in place, keeping trips to cool off in the ocean down to a
comfortable twice per hour. It was an umbrella-flapping, inviting wind though,
not the send your hat and clothes down the beach/sandblasting velocity type we
have experienced in past trips.
We spent nearly five hours on the beach. With not having
a time share or favorite villa in St. Martin that we can call our second home,
that orange and white chair is second only to my living room couch as a place
where I feel true comfort and completely at ease. P asked me at one point,
“When do you want to leave?” and I replied “In three of four days.” Alas, it
was our last day here, but we will bring back a boatload of good memories to
get us through until we can return again.
Click here for T. Stelma's Novels
Click here for T. Stelma's Novels
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