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Tuesday, May 1, 2012

The Addiction that is St. Martin - A Caribbean getaway like no other


A trip of a lifetime six years ago, P and I enjoyed our sixth visit to St. Martin in February 2005. It is a vacation destination like no other, with so much to offer for so many. You might ask what it is that makes this place so unique and addicting. I will attempt to explain it, but you really need to go and see for yourself. The following are some guidelines and tips that make it special for us year after year.

Keep in mind this can be an expensive trip, but there are ways to trim the cost if your vacation budget is limited. The primary currency is the Euro, which currently holds an exchange rate of 1 to 1.3254 against the U.S. Dollar. Many restaurants offered one for one exchange in the past, but that trend is disappearing. But there are cheap eats available with little sacrifice in quality. You are going to love the food just about everywhere you go. Pizza is affordable almost everywhere, and the Lolos in Grand Case offer top quality grilled meats and fish for a low price. Our recent favorite of those is Germaine’s.

Flying in is easier than it used to be, with a new state-of-the-art airport that moves tourist along at a quick pace. I miss the charm of the old airport though, with its brightly painted series of cast- in-place additions. Our first year, we got off the plane and walked across the tarmac to this tiny terminal. It had a third world feel to it. It was hot, crowded, and a little disorienting but the lure of the warm Caribbean wind as we walked up made up for it.

We have always rented our cars from Unity Car Rental. They pick you up and drive you to a tiny field next to a ramshackle building. Not an entirely picturesque setting, but the service is excellent and the vehicles are trustworthy. I would recommend an SUV if you want to get out and explore, as well you should. The roads can be pretty darn nasty off the beaten track and you will appreciate the larger vehicle when you encounter them.

Your budget will determine which side of the island you choose to stay. We prefer the French side, even though the language barrier can be a bit troublesome at times. Our favorite Hotel on the French side has been Alamanda, because it is the newest resort, they have excellent, friendly service, and they are a very short walk from the world famous nudist resort that is Club Orient.

However, if you want the best bang for your buck, try The Summit Resort on the Dutch side of the island. Secluded with a breathtaking view of Simpson Bay Lagoon, the deluxe rooms have a full kitchen and can comfortably sleep four people. They have a pool where you can sun and swim topless and a restaurant and bar on site with an engaging staff. You will be ideally located for the Dutch nightlife too, just a short drive to the Sunset Bar and Grill, Bamboo Bernie's, and Bliss, all hotspots for the young and energetic.

For the young money crowd, The Maho beach area offers hi-rise condos and time shares and is a bit closer to the aforementioned bars

St. Martin boasts 37 beaches, but we primarily stick with four for the clothing optional aspect they offer, along with their distinctive personalities and beauty. Orient Beach is a must visit for your first full day, especially if that is a Sunday. The beach is at its liveliest, with a diverse variety of people, especially at Club Orient. Plunk down some cash there for chairs and an umbrella and enjoy the people watching. You can choose to keep your suit on, but most take them off within the first few minutes. Nearly everyone around you is completely nude, so you eventually begin to feel pretty out of place with a suit on…”When in Rome”.
You needn't worry too much about being photographed there, as the resort employs security to ward off the inevitable throng of cruise ship day trippers that make a giggly tour of Club Orient a must-do excursion. Their shock and amusement is as entertaining to us as we are to them. A brave few will even lose there top or bottoms, and make a promise to themselves to return for a full week the following year.
Make sure to take a stroll along the entire mile and a quarter length of the beach too. People used to walk the beach nude at all times of the day, but recent Government crackdowns now limit you to a g-string or sheer cover-up I opt for shorts or a swim suit (does any guy look right in a g-string?) On this walk you will be the subject of much scrutiny and image recording, as topless is allowed but not entirely prevalent. It's a “see and be seen” beach, so walking the length nearly nude is not for the timid or jealous types. I say enjoy the attention. This is your 15 minutes of fame. Well, a bit longer than that if you're walking the entire length.
Stop in at the Pirate or Le String for lunch and enjoy the French/Caribbean cuisine. Both places have friendly and attentive staffs.

For professional and amateur models and photographers, Orient offers a panoramic backdrop for shutterbugs. Just make sure someone that would rather not be in your photo is not part of your shot. There are usually a lot of people everywhere on this beach, so isolating your subject may be difficult. All variety of water sports is readily available as well. You can even take a ferry ride to the small island of Pinel and enjoy its main beach, or take a hike to the more secluded and clothing optional stretches of sand away from the dock. Club Orient also offers a "Nude Cruise" to Tintamere Island, which is expensive but definitely worth the price from what I have been told.

Another must visit beach is Baie Rouge, which is a French beach not far for the French/Dutch border. Here you will find around a mile of sand so soft it is really unnecessary to rent a chair, the sand conforms to your body. You will never be at a loss to find some seclusion here, most folks populate the north area in front of the two restaurants while the remaining center and south area is scattered with a smattering of sun lovers, both clothed and unclothed. An entrance sign prohibits nudity, but the beach boys will be happy to set you up "past the white umbrella"; their own designation for nude use. The French police (Gendarmes) will not pay a visit to enforce this vague ban on nudity as long as no one complains, so keep your PDA's to a minimum and don't venture too close to the textile patrons and you will be just fine. Take a walk to the southern end for some truly spectacular photo ops with your subject in the foreground of a pristine and romantic background. Rent a pool float and bask in the sun while the calm waters beneath you keep you cool and refreshed. Pure relaxation and ecstasy. Slip on your suit and head over for happy hour when the sea shell horn sounds. The drinks are strong and the staff at either restaurant is engaging and funny.

A beach for nudists and textiles alike is Happy Bay on the northern area of St. Martin. Located next to Friar's Bay, it is separated from that beach by a rather large and difficult to traverse hill. Steep rocky slopes on a narrow path gradually give way to a simply gorgeous and isolated horseshoe bay. It is well worth the hike. This is one of our favorite beaches because the harmony that exists between textiles and nudists is remarkable. There is no fear of shutterbugs or cruise ship day trip invasions here. Photo ops are plentiful here, with large rocks jutting out of the sand and plenty of room for shots without others entering the frame. Beach chairs, umbrellas and food and drink have become available recently, but there are no facilities other than nearby bushes. Weather permitting Happy Bay is a serene and blissful day trip. It is not a beach to be missed.

Cupecoy beach is the only beach on the Dutch side that permits nudity. Alas, beach erosion and condo development has taken out the once expansive northern section of beach, but the southern section and adjacent coves remain intact to some degree depending on the fickle tides. Cupecoy is unique in that certain frequent travelers hold a reverence to it that borders on spiritual. If erosion limited the beach to the size of a pool table, I am certain they would find a way to occupy every square inch, forgoing any other beach in favor of it. Here you will find pounding surf against tall cliffs, a picture postcard-epic romantic film clip worthy backdrop for photographic backgrounds of magnificent quality. Enjoy the company that surrounds you, they are truly experiencing their own personal Nirvana and are happy to share it with you.

We are “get up at the crack of dawn and enjoy every minute of sunshine” travelers, so our nightlife recommendations are a bit limited. One experience I have to offer is Karaoke night at Club Orient's bar/restaurant. Although the host tends to hog the mic, there still are opportunities to warble your own tune, or watch the naked patrons dance to the beat. Delightfully entertaining.

Body painting night at the Sunset Bar and Grill can be a lot of fun too. The bar boasts a "topless women drink for free" policy that is frequently put to use (always by P). The rule still applies if you are wearing only paint. The artist is quick and immensely talented, and she works for tips only. You may run into patrons you met on Cupecoy earlier on this night, they tend to be the least shy about brandishing their attributes. Depending on the events scheduled, the SSBG can be mighty slow some nights, so plan your visit around an event or weekend entertainment.
The Orient Village area is a unique place that could have you feeling you have been transported to a French village. There are areas in the main square for playing a Bocce-type game, and charming restaurants offer a great variety of culinary cuisines. You may also find a foam party or live entertainment at one of the beach bars during the week. Ask around while you are there to find out who is having what that week.
As I mentioned before, the Maho and Simpson areas have some nightlife to offer the younger crowd, but being a bit older, I can't really make specific recommendations on those places.

St. Martin has its problems with crime as many other Caribbean destinations do, so do be careful, especially late at night. Try to travel with a group, even on your hike to Happy Bay.

Hopefully you will come to experience this diverse and utterly charming place. Let me know if you have any questions. I will be happy to answer them.happybaynovel.com

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