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Sunday, October 19, 2014

Take a trip over the border and explore French St. Martin


In responses to my Facebook posts from our island adventures, it became apparent to me that an old friend who has been to the island many more times than I had never really gotten out and explored everything “the rock” has to offer. She and her husband had never taken the hike to Happy Bay, never climbed to the top of Fort Louis to take in the spectacular view of Marigot, and never enjoyed the fine cuisine found in Marigot, Grand Case, and Orient Village. “You are missing out,” I told her. Although the Dutch side holds many attractions all its own, the French side experience is decidedly more European in its culture and “feel” (do I state the obvious?).

For us, a trip to Port de la Royale is mandatory for a late lunch after spending a beach day at Baie Rouge or Cupecoy. Just a short walk from a spacious parking area, it is tucked into the Simpson Bay Lagoon where Marigot “proper” begins. A three-sided boardwalk surrounds the end of the lagoon with a large number of restaurants. You have your choice of open-air dining or inside dining at most (if not all) establishments. A beautiful young lady or entertaining gentleman waits outside each one to draw you in to sample their respective cuisines.
Take a table near the docks and relax as the dinghies bring in folks from their yachts, or enjoy the people watching as others stroll the boardwalk. We like to debate whether the impeccably dressed woman casually walking by is a celebrity or famous model…you never know who may show up there.

The variety of dining choices is near endless, from lobster-stuffed chicken filet to submarine sandwiches (on banquette of course); we have never been disappointed on our visits to this port.
Once you exit the Marigot area, you will encounter rolling hills and pastures with grazing cows, along with goats and chickens carefully navigating the edge of the roads. Look for a left turn just past the small airport to arrive in Grand Case, a wonderful area with a lively street scene. There is parking available in a large lot and the narrow avenue is resplendent with restaurants and shops; again, an excellent opportunity to stroll and take in the French Island culture. The variety of epicurean delights is far greater than you might expect, with fine French cuisine to simple, yet tasty (and completely affordable) grilled fish, chicken, and ribs found at the outdoor Lolos that overlook the Grand Case beach.

Any establishment on the water offers a spectacular sunset; it is a good opportunity to take photos of your significant others with a breathtaking backdrop. Some places are energetic and crowded with locals, while others are quietly sophisticated. You can peruse the menus on signs posted outside most restaurants to decide what you are in the mood for while browsing the merchandise in an artist’s studio or learning to make your own perfume. Grand Case is a must-do every time we visit St. Martin.

Another area we favor is Orient Village, where we always feel we have been transported to a small town somewhere in France. The large courtyard behind the Orient Beach resorts features just a few restaurants with a great variety of cultural specialties and some of the friendliest staff you will ever encounter anywhere. Sit back and enjoy the open-air dining while watching the progress of a game of Pétanque on the gravel quad or listening to live music (not loud) on a stage in the center of this square. A completely relaxing and delightful “old world” experience.

I have since convinced my friend to stray from their timeshare on the Dutch side and get out and enjoy everything French St. Martin has to offer. There is much more to explore than simply Orient Beach for a day trip. Bon Appétit my friends!


Tim Stelma, contributing writer and author of the Happy Bay Novel series.

 click here to find out more about the Happy Bay book series